Must Visit Places: Dubrovnik, Cavtat, Islands of Hvar and Korcula, Split, Zagreb, Plitvice Lakes National Park and waterfalls, Krka National Park and waterfalls, Rijeka, Zadar, Samobor
Dubrovnik:
We arrived from Barcelona and took the bus service departing from the main arrivals terminal building of Dubrovnik Airport into Dubrovnik Old Town. Alternatively you can take an Uber or taxi to your lodging.
Dubrovnik’s diminutive old town lies within sturdy medieval fortifications, overlooking the deep blue Adriatic. Once an independent republic, today it's the pulsing heart of an exciting region.We wandered the streets of the Old Town which is compact and easy to walk. The narrow streets are filled with small shops, noble Baroque buildings, museums and galleries, while beyond the walls are beaches, islands and a glorious coastline.
Of all the things to do in Dubrovnik, the absolute unmissable experience is a walk around the battlements of the medieval city walls. The 1.25 mile circuit offers fantastic views over the old town’s terracotta rooftops and out to sea. Originally built in the 13th century, the walls protected the city from the outside world. At night, the two entrances into the city, Pile Gate and Ploče Gate, were locked, and wooden drawbridges hoisted up to prevent intruders from entering.
If you are a Game of Thrones fan, rejoice. Dubrovnik is King’s Landing. This city is one of the best Game of Thrones filming locations you can visit since so much of the city was featured in the show. The main thoroughfare through the Old Town - Stradun was also a filming location for Star Wars Episode VIII.
Vegetarian Dinner reco:
Nishta: This pretty tiny spot is fully vegetarian, with a short but delicious menu. There are a few items that are staples on the menu, but the rest rotate out every day, with vegan and raw options always available.
Taj Mahal: Michelin guide mentioned Bosnian food that along with meat specialities, has plenty of vegetarian options.
Islands of Korcula and Hvar:
Choosing which island to visit on the Dalmatian coast can be a tricky task. Both Hvar and Korcula are spectacular. The best route is Dubrovik-Korcula-Hvar-Split, ferries run to and from all these places. Note: Ferry departures are very weather dependent, we had to change our departure date due to ferries being canceled.
Korcula, is a hidden gem offering quiet beaches, unspoiled landscapes and a crowd-free destination rich in fascinating history and culture. It offers a more authentic experience of ‘Old Croatia,’ with fewer crowds and the opportunity to find tranquility even during the busiest months. It’s a sleepy island, so relax and maybe climb to the top of St Mark’s bell tower or visit the home of Marco Polo. We took a catamaran from Dubrovnik to Korcula, the journey takes 1hr 50 mins.
Hvar Town on the other hand was incredibly lively and busy with lots of tourists–a bit of a party island. We preferred the island’s historic old town of Stari Grad. This slow-paced storybook town has the most idyllic waterfront and a completely different pace of life than cosmopolitan Hvar Town.
Split:
We took the ferry from Hvar to Split, the 2nd largest city in Croatia and a beautiful coastal town with just the right balance of tradition and modernity. We really enjoyed hanging out here, walking on the promenade, where locals gather in the evenings. There is much to see.
The Cathedral of St Dominus and Bell Tower: the Cathedral and the museums are worth a visit, but the real reason to visit the Cathedral is the bell tower. From the top of the tower, you get a fantastic view all around Split’s old town and Diocletian’s Palace.
Diocletian’s Palace: A UNESCO heritage site, Diocletian’s Palace is the Roman ruins you’ve never heard of but need to see.You can see much of Diocletian’s Palace for free, but it’s worth paying to explore the substructure of the palace. The substructure of the Palace was used both as where dragons were kept as well as Daenerys’ throne room in Game of Thrones. Make sure to visit at nighttime as well when everything is lit up.
Marjan Park: West of the old town, you can walk up Marjan Hill. It is an easy walk from old town with steps leading up to it. You walk through pine forests to get to scenic lookouts with sweeping views. A great place to watch the sunset or get a view over the city at night.
Bačvice Bay: A short walk from the historical area to the east will get you to a large beach and bay area. It’s a lovely walk as it gets you away from the touristy areas. There is a large sand beach here as well as a promenade and rocky area.
Vegetarian Dinner Recos:
Marta’s Veggie Fusion: a charming family restaurant equally loved by locals and visitors, above all because of its delicious homemade meals, but also because it’s situated near Split’s famous Peristil Square.
Hestia: A tiny joint that smells sensational thanks to its trademark spicy soups served with homemade bread, Hestia also offers design-your-own omelettes and a changing selection of seasonal foods.
Onwards to Plitvice Lakes National Park.
We rented a car when we were ready to leave Split en route to Plitvice Lakes National Park. I would highly recommend three stops on the way.
Roman ruins of Salona: an archaeological park with ruins that are extensive, testifying to the importance of this colony under Roman rule. As they are relatively unvisited, wandering this empire of ruins is an evocative journey to an era of emperors, gladiators and Christian martyrs.
Klis Fortress: Set up on a limestone bluff that looks out over Split. This fortress might look familiar to you if you are a Game of Thrones fan. It was used as Meereen, where Daenerys freed all of the slaves.
Krka Falls: Formed like a series of terraces, the Krka and Čikola Rivers spill over 17 travertine steps into deep pools before flowing into the next set, creating Skradinski Buk which towers 45 meters high. The Krka falls are so strong they helped power the world’s second oldest hydro-electric plant, yet the pool below is so tranquil that you can still swim right underneath. Roški Slap is also a lovely, slightly remote waterfall that is worth a visit if you have time. Formed from a series of cascades between the river Krka and the unspoilt beauty of Lake Visovac its water funnels and necklaces are very unique.
Plitvice National Park:
Driving through sheets or torrential rain on dark, winding streets, we arrived at our airbnb late in the night. Where we stayed, it was a very small village near the Station 2 entrance, with just two small restaurants and limited food choices. What made it worthwhile is that very few people enter from here (Station 1 is the main entrance). Traveling counter clockwise, you have the place very nearly to yourself.
Plitvice Lakes National Park is one of those places that simply defies words. It is made up of 16 interconnected lakes that tumble into each other, one after the other, in a series of stunning waterfalls. It was designated as Croatia’s first national park in 1949, and later became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1979. The lakes themselves are absolutely magnificent, filled with crystal-clear water that changes color by the hour, but often appears as a bright turquoise that seems more suitable to a fantasy novel than a place on Earth. Picturesque wooden boardwalks criss-cross the lakes, creating a fairytale-worthy environment where you can get right up close to the fabulous natural beauty.
Zagreb
A few days here and then we drove back to Croatia’s capital city of Zagreb. En route I’d highly recommend stopping in Samobor, a small, charming village, 20 Km outside Zagreb. The main square is King Tomislav Square, and is truly a highlight of the town. The cobblestone streets, Baroque style-architecture, and picturesque bridges give you a sense of old world charm. Get some ice cream, all the locals insisted we try it at Sweet Factory Medenko.
Locals like to say Zagreb is a big town disguised as a small city. It’s a fantastic culture, where people, young and old, gather on terraces for rakija (schnapps) and kava (super-strength coffee) at all hours. Early evenings will find families promenade city streets and piazzas to catch up with neighbors.
So much to see. After a large breakfast made in our airbnb we took a sightseeing stroll from the 19th-century, neoclassical central train station, Glavni kolodvor, to the main square, Ban Jelačić Square. From there, follow the aptly named ‘Green Horseshoe’ of parks and sites that wrap around Donji Grad, or Lower Town. Zagreb Cathedral. Zagreb’s hilltop Upper Town, passing through the district’s Stone Gate, Croatian Parliament and then to the showstopper: St Mark’s Church. Lots of theaters and cafes to explore, which we did. Eli’s Caffe has the best kava in town.
You cannot leave without visiting Zagreb’s open-air markets. Climb the steps behind Ban Jelačić Square to reach Dolac Market, whose expanse of red umbrellas covers vendors selling fruit, vegetables, cheese, nuts, honey and liqueurs — accompanied by a cornucopia of local knowledge. Head west along Ilica Street to British Square, where, on Sunday mornings, antique dealers hawk everything from jewelry to Yugoslav memorabilia.
We closed out our trip across these former Yugoslavia countries in Cavtat, Croatia. We spent the afternoon in the center and hiked to a small mausoleum with great views. We stayed at the Bachan serviced apartments. The owner is Anton Bachan, a cool guy and yes, he has heard of the Indian Amitabh Bachchan. He has relatives in CA and we had a nice conversation with him about the Croatian economy and life in general.