Serenity, Shrines and Shinkansen: Everything you need to know for a 2-week Trip to Japan

Japan doesn’t just welcome you—it gracefully bows, serves you matcha, and then quietly blows your mind. It’s a place where ancient shrines sit comfortably beside robotic cafes, where silence is golden on trains, but pachinko parlors scream like slot machines on steroids. Japanese culture isn’t something you observe from a distance—it’s something that wraps you in a kimono of contradictions and invites you to marvel, question, and bow back in awe. Here’s how we experienced it all.

We noticed that the Japanese people have a deep-rooted sense of respect, humility, and collective harmony—values that are woven into nearly every aspect of daily life. Politeness isn’t just a social nicety in Japan—it’s practically an art form. But behind the courtesy, there’s also an unshakable dedication to craft and community. Whether it’s the meticulous preparation of sushi, the precise movements of a tea ceremony, or the passionate work ethic seen in even the humblest roles, there’s a deep pride in doing things well, often without any expectation of recognition. And in Japan, even the call of nature is answered with precision and care—every bathroom (public or private) has heated seats, built in bidets and are spotless.

Best time to visit:

• Spring (March to May). Be aware that Sakura (cherry blossom) season and golden week (local holidays) tends to be very, very crowded.

• Autumn/Winter (November to January) is ideal, great weather, no rain, vibrant foliage. Note: While everything will be closed around year-end, you can experience the Japanese New Year.

Tips:

• The shopping here is incredible. I have a list of what I bought at the end of the blog. I carried a foldable bag to bring back the haul.

• We travelled with 2 carry-ons. I would highly recommend this, makes travelling on the bullet trains and getting from airport to hotels on trains easier. With larger bags you need advance reservations for those bags on the Shinkansen.

• List of the incredible places that serve vegetrian (some with vegan) local cuisine is also at the end of the blog.

• We did not need to use cash. The Suica card worked everywhere - trains, vending machines and some stores. We were able to top it up in real time as needed.

• We decided not to purchase the JR Rail Pass, as it was expensive and didn’t offer good value when we totaled our anticipated travel costs

Tokyo: The Dynamic Metropolis

Our Tokyo adventure kicked off right after landing at Haneda Airport, a convenient choice despite its slightly dated feel and the surprisingly long immigration lines. Even pre-registering online didn't quite save us from the wait! But its proximity to the city center, especially compared to Narita, was a huge win. From there, it was a quick hop to our Shibuya accommodation, just a five-minute stroll from the bustling Shibuya Train Station.

Our first mission? The legendary Shibuya Crossing. It's pure organized chaos, a mesmerizing dance of thousands of people, akin to Times Square but with its own unique Tokyo rhythm. Watching over 3,000 people cross at each signal change, converging from at least five streets with six crosswalks, was an unforgettable spectacle.

Shibuya Crossing

We then wandered down Meiji Dori in Harajuku, a super trendy neighborhood brimming with unique shops and fashion boutiques. Our first evening wrapped up perfectly with a delicious vegan ramen meal.

Day two was a deep dive into Tokyo's history and luxury. We began at the National Diet Parliament Building before immersing ourselves in the serene Imperial Palace and Gardens, a 10-minute walk from Tokyo Station. Book your tour in advance to guarantee entry. The guided tour is very good and offers a fascinating glimpse into Japan's imperial past. Covering over one square kilometer in the central Chiyoda Ward, it's built on the site of the former Edo Castle and became the Imperial Family's permanent home in 1869. While we couldn't go inside the palace itself (the royal family lives here), we explored numerous historical and beautiful sites, including the Mt. Fuji-view Keep, the Lotus Moat, and the iconic Nijyu Bridge.

Navigating Tokyo Train Station itself was an experience! This massive, multi-level structure is bigger than most international airports, a true hub for countless train lines. Seriously, it can take 30 minutes just to exit, so knowing your closest exit is crucial!

Next up was Ginza, Tokyo's premier luxury shopping district, where we found a peaceful escape in the traditional Japanese Hamarikyu Gardens nearby. The afternoon led us to the lively Tsukiji Outer Market, a feast for the senses. We also made sure to visit the charming Namiyoke Inari-jinja Shrine and the distinctive Tsukiji Hongan-ji Temple. We capped off this busy day with stunning skyline views of Tokyo from the Kachidoki Bridge.

We took a fantastic day trip outside of Tokyo to Kawagoe, a less popular but incredibly charming town that felt like time had stood still. It's a complete contrast to modern Tokyo, having retained its historic Edo period atmosphere. We enjoyed a leisurely 1.5-hour stroll from the station to the town center. With its traditional old kurazukuri (storehouses), beautiful temples, shrines, and rich historic culture, it's easy to see why this formerly wealthy merchant town earned the nickname "Little Edo."

Back in Tokyo, we absolutely loved visiting Sensoji Temple, the city's oldest and most popular Buddhist temple, built in 645 AD. It's visually stunning with its lovely pagoda roof, numerous gates and halls, and a beautiful five-storied pagoda. We also explored the nearby Sumida and Ueno Parks, and, of course, the vibrant Nakamise Shopping Street. This street is one of Japan's oldest, with roots tracing back to the 17th century, and it genuinely retains that traditional, old-school Tokyo vibe.

We were incredibly impressed by the Meiji Jingu Shrine, a serene Shinto shrine dedicated to Emperor Meiji and Empress Shoken. Tucked within the vast Yoyogi Park, the shrine and its surrounding forest create a peaceful oasis right in the heart of the city. Emperor Meiji, the first emperor of modern Japan, ushered in the Meiji Restoration, ending Japan's feudal era and restoring the emperor to power. It was during his reign that Japan rapidly modernized, transforming into a major world power by the time he passed away in 1912. After this historical interlude, we plunged back into the modern world on Harajuku's Takeshita Street, which was absolutely packed with people!

We couldn't resist indulging in some serious retail therapy at the multi-story Mega Don Quijote, Muji, and Daiso stores – true shopping heaven! (My list of must buy products listed at the end.)

Our final full day in Tokyo was a perfect blend of ancient and modern. We started again at Sensoji Temple, Tokyo's oldest. The Nakamise Shopping Street leading up to it was a lively market street, perfect for sampling traditional snacks. Right next to Sensoji, the Asakusa Shrine offered a wonderfully serene atmosphere. The afternoon was spent exploring Ueno Park, a vast public space home to several major museums.

Tokyo truly delivered an unforgettable experience, seamlessly blending its rich history with its vibrant, modern pulse.

Osaka: Culinary Delights and Historic Charms

We hopped on the early morning Shinkansen, Japan's incredible bullet train, which truly showcased their superb train-subway system. It was thrilling to catch a clear glimpse of Mount Fuji at exactly 44 minutes into our journey; we'd strategically booked seats on the right side of the train for just that reason. You see it clearly for 14 mins, in all its majesty. (This is why we opted out of the 11-hour journey from Tokyo to see Fuji/Hakone.)

A view of Mount Fuji from the bullet train

Arriving in Osaka, we checked into our hotel in the Namba neighborhood, perfectly situated in the city center. Our first stop was the dramatic Namba Yasaka Shrine, with its colossal lion-head structure. As evening set in, we dove into the vibrant Dotonbori canal area, famous for its lively nightlife, dazzling neon lights, and absolutely incredible street food. We also explored Shinsekai, a retro district that exuded a charming, nostalgic vibe, home to the iconic Tsutenkaku Tower.

Our second day in Osaka was a blend of rich history and bustling markets. We started at Osaka Castle, a magnificent landmark and powerful symbol of the city. We spent a good amount of time exploring the castle itself and its beautiful Nishinomaru Garden. It’s fascinating to think that Hideyoshi Toyotomi, often called the "Napoleon of Japan," began its construction in 1583, and that it has been burned down and rebuilt so many times over centuries of conflicts. Next, we found serenity at the Sumiyoshi Taisha Shrine, a unique Shinto shrine with truly iconic architecture. Our taste buds were in heaven at the Kuromon Ichiba Market, affectionately known as "Osaka’s kitchen," a bustling food market overflowing with local delicacies, including delicious mochi balls.

We absolutely loved Shitennoji, one of Japan's earliest temples and the first ever built by the state, dating back to 593 thanks to Prince Shotoku's efforts to spread Buddhism. We even climbed the five-story pagoda in the inner precinct's pebble-covered courtyard. Nearby, the Gokuraku-Jodo Garden, inspired by stories of the Western Paradise of the Amida Buddha, offered another peaceful retreat. Just like in Tokyo, we noticed the widespread use of tactile paving, or "Tenji blocks"—those raised dots and lines on sidewalks that are such a thoughtful way to help visually impaired individuals navigate safely. We found ourselves drawn back to the Dotonbori canal area a few times, making sure to take in the famous Glico Running Man billboard, which has been a fixture since 1935!

Nara: Ancient Capital and Bowing Deer

From Osaka, we took a delightful half-day trip to Nara, Japan’s very first permanent capital. We arrived eager to meet Nara's famous bowing deer, though we quickly learned they can be quite enthusiastic (and a little aggressive!) when food is involved! Our main goal was to visit Todaiji Temple, home to the world's largest bronze statue of Buddha. While in Nara, we also visited the Horyuji Temple and explored the beautiful Isuien Garden. We munched on some delicious freshly baked treats—a perfect complement to the ancient surroundings.

Kyoto: The Heart of Traditional Japan

The Kyo-Train Garaku is a special sightseeing train to get from Osaka to Kyoto on the Hankyu Kyoto Line. Highly recommend, the train’s interior is styled like a ryokan. It feels like you are entering a serene guesthouse rather than public transport.

In Kyoto we had a charming apartment nestled in the heart of the Gion district. It turned out to be our most spacious accommodation of the trip—complete with a kitchen and washing machine, which was a small but essential luxury at that point in our travels. Plus, it was super close to one of the best café’s in town. We went there daily.

We began our exploration at Nijō Castle, the former Kyoto residence of Tokugawa Ieyasu, the first shogun of the Edo period. Built in 1603 and expanded by his grandson Iemitsu, the castle complex showcases some of the finest surviving examples of castle palace architecture from feudal Japan. With its fortified layout—consisting of the Honmaru (main circle), Ninomaru (secondary circle), and beautifully landscaped gardens—Nijō-jō Castle gave us a strong sense of historical grandeur, all while maintaining the elegant minimalism so characteristic of Japanese design. Following the fall of the Tokugawa Shogunate in 1867, the castle briefly served as an imperial residence before being opened to the public.

We also enjoyed a guided tour of the Kyoto Sento Imperial Palace, set within tranquil, manicured grounds. While entry into the buildings isn’t permitted, the tour offered rich historical context. Once a residence for Japan’s Imperial family, the palace—rebuilt in 1855 after a fire—reflects Kyoto's longstanding status as the nation's former capital. Fires and reconstructions seemed to be a recurring theme in the Japan’s storied tribal past.

Our second full day was devoted to Kyoto's most iconic sights. We set off early for Fushimi Inari Taisha, where thousands of vermilion torii gates create a mesmerizing path that winds its way up Mount Inari. Dedicated to Inari, the Shinto god of rice, this sacred site predates Kyoto’s designation as the capital in 794. Fox statues—believed to be Inari’s messengers—dot the shrine’s grounds, adding an ethereal charm to the already magical setting.

Later, we wandered through the lively Pontocho district and visited Kiyomizu-dera, a revered temple perched on a hillside with a vast wooden stage offering sweeping views of the city. From there, we strolled down Sannenzaka and Ninensaka, two beautifully preserved, sloping pedestrian streets paved with stone and lined with quaint shops and traditional eateries. These walks felt like a step back in time.

As evening fell, went to Gion, Kyoto’s famed geisha district, in search of geisha’s.  In Japan, "geisha" refers to professional female artists trained in traditional Japanese arts like shamisen music, dance, and tea ceremony. In Kyoto, they are known as "geiko," while "maiko" refers to their younger apprentices. We were fortunate to spot one geiko who was walking with her client, she had a man trailing behind her with her handbag. It was incredible to see her in action.

In Gion at around 5:30 p.m. (best time to spot them) we saw three maiko’s on their way to engagements—graceful and poised in their exquisite attire. Respectful observation was encouraged, and we were careful not to intrude or photograph them.

Best place to spot them: focus on Hanamikoji Street and the intersection of Hanamikoji Street and Shijo Street.

Our final day was spent exploring western Kyoto. We started at Ryōan-ji Temple, renowned for its minimalist Zen rock garden that invites quiet contemplation. Then came one of the trip’s highlights: a walk through the towering green stalks of the Arashiyama Bamboo Grove—a truly serene walk and experience. We also visited Tenryu-ji, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, where centuries-old landscape gardens blend perfectly with the surrounding mountains. From there, we wandered to Nonomiya-jinja Shrine, took in the panoramic views at Okochi Sanso Garden, and paused on the picturesque Togetsukyō Bridge, watching the gentle flow of the Katsura River.

Throughout our time in Kyoto—and Japan as a whole—the food never failed to impress. We savored delicious ramen, and as vegetarians, we were pleasantly surprised by the growing number of vegan-friendly options. Mona’s knowledge of Japanese from her karate days in Mumbai came in handy, especially when navigating menus and interacting with locals.

We also noticed some fascinating cultural details. There were virtually no beggars, and surprisingly few people walking dogs. Public spaces—especially trains—were marked by an almost meditative silence, creating a peaceful atmosphere unlike any we’d experienced before. Our Suica transport card, integrated with Apple Pay, made getting around effortless; we could top it up in real time, even just moments before catching a train or bus. This is important, as any money left over is forfeited.

Kyoto left us with a deep appreciation for Japan’s traditions, aesthetic sensibilities, and cultural harmony. It’s a place where history and modern life coexist gracefully—a timeless heart of Japan that we’ll always remember. It was our favorite city.

Tea Ceremony Recos:

1.    Kimono Tea Ceremony Kyoto Maikoya

2.    Tea Ceremony Ju-An

3.    Tea Ceremony Nagomi

Hiroshima: A City of Peace and Reflection

We then took a Shinkansen ride from Kyoto to Hiroshima. Our first stop was the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum, a poignant and essential visit to learn about the atomic bombing and its aftermath. We spent time reflecting at the Atomic Bomb Dome and the Children's Peace Monument.

In the afternoon, we embarked on a trip to Miyajima Island, also known as Itsukushima or "Shrine" island. The highlight of Miyajima was the iconic floating torii gate of Itsukushima Shrine. We explored the island, enjoying the friendly deer and walked through the beautiful nature trails.

Tip: The best place to take the ferry (cost 4000 ¥) to Miyajima Island is the boat dock across from the Peace Memorial, however, these ferries are dependent on the tides and will not run when the tide is low in the bay. Another option is to take the ferry from the Hiroshima Harbor, it's cheaper (400 ¥) and more frequent. The downside is th travel time to the harbor, which is far.

This trip has been an unforgettable immersion into the heart of Japan. From the high-speed thrill of the Shinkansen to the tranquility of ancient temples and the vibrant energy of its cities, Japan truly captivated our hearts. We highly recommend a visit Japan. Sayōnara for now, Japan – we will be back! There is much more to see in this fabulous country.

Our trip itinerary

SFO ➡️ Tokyo Haneda ➡️ Kawagoe ➡️ Osaka ➡️ Nara ➡️ Kyoto ➡️ Hiroshima. Flight out of Hiroshima to SFO.

Vegetarian-Vegan Restutrants we tried and loved:

We primarily enjoyed traditional Japanese cuisine during our visit. However, there are also plenty of Indian, falafel, and Mexican restaurants you might like to try.

Tokyo:

Revive Kitchen Three Hibiya

Brown Rice Tokyo Omotesando

T’s Tantan

Vegan Bistro Jangara

Kyushu Jangra

Ain Soph. Journey Shinjuku or the one in Ginza

Vegan Sushi Tokyo (advance reservations recommended, hard to get reservations)

Masaka for the traditional Karaage

Jikasei MENSHO

Mr. Farmer, Shibuya

Ko-So Café, Shibuya

Vegan Tamen Uzu

Suogo

Toratsutroria Ka Po

Veloce Cofee

Osaka:

The Fire (limited menu with all vegan ramen)

Mercy Vegan Factory

Saijiki

Oko Takoyaki (great to be able to try a vegetarian version of this popular street food)

Japanese fermented Degustation bar Odoru

Paprika Shokudo Vegan

Ippudo

Oka Fun Okonomiyaki

Pizza Catharsix Factory

Fulabri (Nepali)

Kyoto:

Engine Ramen (veg and non-veg, the best ramen we have eaten)

Tadka (super yummy south Indian food)

Itadaki Zen Kyoto

Choice

Café Phalam

Vegan Izakaya Masaka Kyoto

Vegan Sushi Kyoto

Hiroshima:

JoGeSaYu (awesome place, won lots of awards)

Nagataya (the best okonomiyaki. Get the spicy noodles and all the toppings)

SHOPPING LIST:

• Onitsuka Tiger Shoes (must buy)

• Nail clippers (Green bell brand) from Muji

• Kai Beauty Care Nail Clippers at Don Quixote

• If you want housewares Kappabashi by Asakusa or LoFt or Tokyu Hands. (I bought a mandolin and its fantastic)

• Sou Sou - they have tabi shoes in fantastic colors.They also have casual kimonos, cool pants.

• Sun screen! Best is Anessa, Biore, or the Nature Republic stick. You can buy these at Don Quiiote.

• OIOI MEN (pronounced “marui”) or Isetan MEN. They are both famous department stores in Shinjuku.

• For women’s fashion, you must visit 109 in Shibuya. You can also visit the regular (non-men’s) version of OIOI and Isetan for women’s fashion.

• Takashimaya is also another good one.

• Also, there is an area in Tokyo called Daikanyama which has all kinds of cool boutique shops (my favorite area in Tokyo). It’s kinda like the Brooklyn or Abbott Kinney of Tokyo. Shimo-kitazawa is another cool area but they mainly have vintage clothes.

• There’s also an area called “Cat Street” which is an area that focuses on street wear.

A few Japanese brands to look out for:

• Comme ca Ism - It’s like a Japanese style Zara.

• Porter (Yoshida & co) - They make really cool bags. Like Hershel Supply, but cooler (and pricier).

• Mont Bell - It’s an outdoor brand like Patagonia. I think they have a big store in Shinjuku.

• Canmake Marshmallow Finish Powder for fresh-looking skin and makeup

• DHC Cleansing Oil

• Melano CC Vitamin C Premium Essence - Makes your dark spots disappear. I find the premium variant is more effective. My go-to vitamin C serum.

• Sana eye cream

• Melty cream lip — the best lip balm ever

• Apagard is a pretty special medicated toothpaste for sensitive teeth that’s only available in japan

• Hada labo premium lotion (red line-made specifically for aging skin)

• Keana Rice Mask - Japan viral rice mask for reducing clogged pores.

• Kose Clear Turn Better Than Sleep Face Mask - This mask claims to make you look like you've had 8hrs of sleep! Use this before applying make-up. 

• Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun and glow serum

• Lion Pair acne cream

• Fino Premium Touch Hair Mask

• Orbis Essence - A leave in conditioner that also keeps my hair fluffy for days on end. Plus, it makes my hair blowdry a lot quicker. Practically magic.

• Kate Lip Monsters - These lipsticks live in my bags. They’re so hydrating and glossy, smooth over my lip texture.

• Sana soy milk wrinkle care eye cream

• Hadalabo gokujyun

• Anessa Sun Milk - Never pills, non-drying despite not being dewy, never had a quality scandal. Buy this at the airport before you leave - the airport is the only place that sells 90mL bottles.

• Heated eye mask (I bought 2 boxes of this stuff) super relaxing

Food items I bought back with me: 

• Furikake: A Japanese seasoning that’s sprinkled on plain rice for flavor and texture.

• KitKat: Besides milk chocolate, these come in unique flavors like matcha, sake, cookies and cream, lemon, strawberry, milk tea, and cheesecake!

• Taiyaki: When you visit Japan, you must treat yourself to warm Taiyaki, fish-shaped pastries filled with the goodness of chocolate, custard or red bean paste.

• Tokyo banana: The ultimate Tokyo souvenir is this sponge cake featuring a delicious cream filling. You can purchase them at Tokyo Station, Haneda Airport, or Narita Airport.

• Nozawana made from turnip greens.